Tips for Installing Kitchen Cabinets

Before you start

Cabinet installation is manageable for a careful DIYer, but it involves heavy lifting, power tools and work behind walls. Set yourself up safely first.

• Get a helper. Wall cabinets and large bases are heavy and awkward. Do not hold an upper cabinet by yourself while fastening it.
• Check for utilities. Before drilling or driving long screws into walls, find out where electrical cables, water pipes and gas lines run. Turn off power at the breaker when working near outlets or wiring, and ask a licensed professional if you are unsure.
• Wear protection. Safety glasses, hearing protection and work gloves for handling. Use a dust mask when cutting or sanding panel products such as particleboard and MDF, which produce fine dust.
• Use tools correctly. Keep cords clear, use sharp bits, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drills, saws and any nail guns (see power tools for beginners for safe-use basics). Unplug or remove batteries when changing bits or blades.
• Unbox and inspect. Check every cabinet against the plan for damage and correct finish. Report problems to the supplier before installing.
• Let materials acclimate if the maker recommends it, particularly solid wood products.

Plan the layout

Compare your drawings to the actual room. Measure wall lengths, check corners, and note the locations of windows, doors, appliances, plumbing and vents. Dry-fit by laying out the cabinets on the floor in order. Decide where fillers and end panels will go. If your cabinets use fixed standard sizes, fillers absorb the difference, as discussed in our guide to stock, semi-custom and custom cabinets.

Check the cabinet construction too. Frameless boxes join differently than face-framed ones, as explained in frameless vs framed cabinets.

Find the high spot and mark reference lines

Floors are rarely perfectly flat. Use a long level or laser level to find the highest point of the floor along the base cabinet run. Measure up from that point to the height specified for the cabinet tops (commonly around 34 1/2 inches for standard base cabinets, though check your plans) and draw a level line around the room. Base cabinets are shimmed up to this line, so you do not end up with a sloping countertop.

Then mark the line for the bottoms of the upper cabinets, again based on your plan. Locate and mark every wall stud with a stud finder, and confirm by tapping or by a small test hole where it will be hidden. Cabinets should be fastened into solid framing, not drywall alone.

Install upper cabinets first

Many installers hang uppers first so they are not working over base cabinets.

1. Screw a temporary support rail (a straight board) to the wall, level with the bottom line of the uppers. This holds the cabinets while you fasten.
2. Remove doors, shelves and drawers to lighten the boxes and protect them. Label doors so they go back where they came from.
3. Start at a corner, or at the cabinet that anchors the layout. Set it on the rail, check it is level and plumb, and drive screws through the hanging rail into studs.
4. Add the next cabinet, clamp the neighboring face frames or box fronts flush, and fasten them together before securing to the wall.
5. Check level and plumb after every cabinet; small errors accumulate along a run.

Use screws recommended by the manufacturer for hanging cabinets; our comparison of wood screws vs drywall screws explains why the right screw matters. Do not overtighten, which can distort or crack the cabinet back.

Install base cabinets

1. Start in a corner or at the cabinet at the high spot.
2. Place the cabinet against the wall, checking level front to back and side to side. Use solid shims under the box and behind the toe kick area, not under the middle of the cabinet bottom alone.
3. Fasten to studs through the back rail.
4. Clamp adjacent cabinets so faces align, then screw them together.
5. Check that doors and drawers will clear nearby handles and appliances.

Plan the sink base cabinet carefully: cut openings for plumbing before setting it in place, and take care with anything near water supplies.

Fasten cabinets together

Neighboring cabinets are generally joined with short screws through face frames or box sides, with clamps holding faces flush while you work. Pre-drill holes where recommended to avoid splitting, and use screws that are not so long they poke through the side. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance for the type and spacing. For frameless boxes, there are specific connector screws designed for that purpose.

Fillers, scribing and finishing details

Gaps against uneven walls are covered with filler strips or scribe molding. To scribe, hold the filler against the wall, trace the wall’s profile on the filler, and trim to the line with a saw or plane. Cut slowly, keep guards on, secure the workpiece, and wear eye and hearing protection.

After the boxes are set, reinstall doors and drawers and adjust hinges so reveals are even. This is especially important for tight-fit styles such as those described in inset vs full overlay cabinets. Add toe kick, trim and light rail to hide gaps, then install handles.

If cabinets are going in a damp room, see our notes on the best material for bathroom cabinets and keep joints and plumbing cutouts sealed.

Common mistakes

• Starting without checking the floor and walls for level and plumb.
• Fastening into drywall instead of studs.
• Hanging heavy cabinets alone or without a support rail.
• Installing the countertop-side cabinets before confirming the layout against appliances.
• Overtightening screws that distort the box.
• Forgetting to remove doors and drawers, which makes boxes heavier and easier to damage.

DIY or hire a pro?

If the layout is simple and you have a helper, patience and basic tools, DIY is realistic. Consider hiring a professional for complex corners, custom or high-end cabinets, work that involves moving plumbing, gas or wiring, or if the walls are badly out of plumb. Labor costs vary by region, kitchen size and complexity, so get written quotes from local installers and confirm what is included, such as removal of old cabinets, hardware and trim.

FAQ

How do I fasten kitchen cabinets together?

Clamp the faces flush and join them with screws recommended by the manufacturer, usually through the face frame or box side. Pre-drill to avoid splitting.

Should I install upper or lower cabinets first?

Many installers hang uppers first for easier access, then set bases. Others do bases first. Either way, work from a level reference line.

How do I make my cabinets look better after installation?

Even reveals, aligned hardware, trim, crown or light rail and clean caulk lines make a big difference. Cleaning and refinishing options are separate topics.

What is the average labor cost to install kitchen cabinets?

It varies too much by region and project to give a reliable figure. Ask local installers for written quotes covering your specific layout.

What kitchen color will not date?

No color is guaranteed to last, but neutral tones and natural wood finishes tend to age well.