Quick overview
Hardwood finishes fall into a handful of families. The names people use vary by brand and region, but the common ones are oil-based polyurethane, water-based polyurethane, moisture-cure urethane, varnish, shellac, lacquer, penetrating or hardwax oils, and wax. Each trades off durability, appearance, drying time, odor and ease of repair.
If you want the bigger picture of why finishing matters first, start with our guide to wood finishes.
Film finishes vs penetrating finishes
- Film finishes (polyurethane, varnish, shellac, lacquer) form a layer on the surface. They typically offer stronger resistance to wear and spills.
- Penetrating finishes (oils, many hardwax oils) soak into the wood. They tend to look and feel more natural and are generally easier to spot-repair, though protection is usually lighter.
Oil-based polyurethane
A widely used, durable film finish. It generally adds a warm amber tone that tends to deepen with age, which many people like on oak, cherry and walnut and may dislike on pale woods. It dries more slowly than water-based products and has a stronger odor and higher solvent content. Needs good ventilation and a suitable respirator.
Water-based polyurethane
Dries faster, has a lower odor, and cleans up with water. It usually looks clearer, though it can still change the look of the wood slightly. See does water-based polyurethane darken wood for details. Many professionals and DIYers use it on floors, cabinets and furniture. Although low odor, it still needs ventilation and the label’s protective gear.
Moisture-cure urethane
Often used by professionals on floors, this product cures with moisture from the air. It is generally considered very durable but has strong fumes and tricky application, so it is usually left to experienced users with proper respiratory protection.
Varnish
Traditional varnish blends resins, oils and solvents to form a hard film. Spar and marine varnishes are formulated for outdoor flexibility and UV resistance. See our best varnish for wood article for more.
Shellac
Made from a natural resin dissolved in alcohol, shellac dries quickly and is easy to repair. It is less resistant to heat, alcohol and water than many modern finishes, so it is often used as a sealer, on lightly used pieces, or as a traditional furniture finish. Alcohol-based shellac is flammable.
Lacquer
Fast-drying and easy to build into a smooth surface, lacquer is common in professional furniture and cabinet shops, often applied by spray. It has strong, flammable fumes and generally requires spraying equipment, excellent ventilation and a proper respirator. It is usually not the easiest choice for a beginner at home. For the cabinet angle, see lacquer kitchen cabinets.
Penetrating and hardwax oils
Oil finishes such as tung, linseed or blended oils, and hardwax oils on floors, enhance grain and give a natural, low-sheen look. They are usually easy to refresh but may need more frequent maintenance and offer less protection against liquids. Rags used with some oils can self-heat and ignite, so dispose of them safely (see below).
Wax
Wax gives a soft, low-sheen feel but little protection by itself. It is often used over another finish or on decorative pieces rather than as the main coat on high-wear surfaces.
Hardwood floors vs furniture
Floors face constant abrasion, so many are finished with polyurethane or urethane products, or with hardwax oils for a more natural look. Furniture and cabinets have more freedom: shellac, lacquer, oils and polyurethane are all common. Our article on unfinished vs. finished wood covers the floor side, and how to change the color of a hardwood floor covers recoloring. Follow the flooring manufacturer’s recommendations, particularly for prefinished or engineered floors, and check with a flooring professional if unsure.
How to choose
- Heavy traffic or spills: a hard film such as polyurethane is usually favored.
- Natural look and easy repairs: consider an oil or hardwax oil.
- Light woods you want to keep pale: a water-based clear coat is often chosen.
- Warm, amber glow: oil-based products tend to deliver it.
- Sheen: see the wood finish sheen guide.
- Color first: pair your finish with the right stain, as explained in water-based vs oil-based wood stain.
Always test on a scrap of the same species.
Safety
- Ventilate the work area with fresh air and keep children and pets out.
- Use the respirator type the product label or safety data sheet specifies. A paper dust mask does not protect against vapors.
- Many solvents, lacquers and shellac are flammable: no flames, smoking or sparks, and shut off pilot lights if the label advises it.
- Rags with oil finishes can heat and ignite as they cure. Spread them flat outdoors to dry or store them in a sealed metal container with water, and follow local disposal rules.
- When sanding floors or furniture, use dust collection and respiratory protection, plus eye and hearing protection with power sanders.
Frequently asked questions
What are the main types of wood finishes?
Commonly listed are oil-based polyurethane, water-based polyurethane, varnish, shellac, lacquer, penetrating oil and wax. Lists differ by source.
What is the best finish for hardwood floors?
There is no single best option. Polyurethane (water-based or oil-based) is a common durable choice, and hardwax oils suit those wanting a natural look. Match the product to traffic, the wood and your tolerance for maintenance.
What do professionals use on hardwood floors?
Professionals often use water-based or oil-based polyurethane, moisture-cure urethanes and hardwax oils, depending on the project and client needs.
What are some common finish names?
Polyurethane, varnish, shellac, lacquer, tung oil, Danish oil, linseed oil and paste wax are among the most familiar names.